Extensible crotch for garments



Jan. 7, 1930. H. R. HART 1,743,082

EXTENSIBLE CROTCH FOR GARMENTS Filed Feb. 4. 1926 ijnventoz Patented Jan. 7, 1930- UNITED STATES PATENT HENRY RIDGEWAY HART, OF MONTGLAIR, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO A. G. SPAL- DING 8c BROS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY EXTENSIBLE OROTCI-I FOR GARMENTS Application filed February This invention relates to an extensible or bellows-like crotch which may be incorporated under the arms or legs of garments. The principal object of the invention is to provide at these places means which will give freedom of movement and necessary fullness when and as required and yet be of such character as to preserve the snugness of fit and symmetry of appearance when the extension is not availed of, that is, during ordinary wear of the garment. Pleats and fullness, of course, have been contemplated to meet such purposes but these produce a fullness and puckering which is unsightly when the garment is in normal use and inconveniences the wearer by bunching. In accordance with the present invention it is proposed to provide a bellows-like extensible section as a separate insert, so formed and constructed and set in as to preserve the fit of the seam. A suitable embodiment of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings where the section is shown as incorporated under the arm pit in a so-called wind break garment now in vogue.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a View in elevation showing a jacket with the sleeve raised to show the improved means as incorporated under the arm plt.

Figure 2 is a view in front elevation of the garment with the sleeve in the position of normal wear.

Figure 3 is a detailed view showing the form and relation of the sections of the ex"- tensible insert.

Figure 4 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated by the line H of Figure 1 and looking in the direction of the arrows and showing how the sections are united to one another and to the sleeve and body of the jacket.

The jacket a which may, of course, be a garment for any use but illustrated as a wind break is provided with sleeves one of which I) is shown. This garment to be sightly in normal wear has the sleeve set in the jacket with an unbroken seam so that when the arm is at the side there is no fullness or bunching and the lines and symmetry of the material will be unbroken. However, in such a gar- 4,-1926. Serial No. 85,825.

ment intended for athletic wear freedom of movement of the arms is highly desirable so that there will be no binding-whenthe arms are moved. Ordinarily a tightness and restraint in such garments is encountered in that portion of the seam extending under the arm pit. It is at this point that the improved insertion is made. In order to insure the desired freedom and yet preserve the symmetry of appearance when the arm is at the side the insert must be of a character that will conform to the general lines of both the sleeve and the jacket. Such an extensible or bellows-like insert is provided in the illustrated embodiment by the employment of two crescent shape sections 0, d, which may be of the same material as the garment itself, each of these sections for convenience in sewing in being made in two portions provided near the center of the crescent but not in line with one another, the meeting edges of the two portions ofthe respective sections being indicated at 0, d. The length of the two crescent shaped sections 0, d, will, roughly, equal half the perimeter of the arm hole in the jacket while the radius on which each crescent is cut will conform generally to the radius on which the sleeve and the arm hole is out. However, it will be seen that the upper section 0 which is to be stitched to the sleeve along its upper edge, as viewed in Figure 1, will be cut on the same radius as the sleeve, while the lower section (Z which is to be stitched along its lower edge, as viewed in Figures 1 and 3, to the arm hole, will be cut on the same radius as the arm hole. Similarly, the meeting edges of the two sections 0, cl, as viewed in Figure 1, and being the top or concave edges of the piece d and the bottom or convex edge of the upper piece 0 as viewed in Figure 3, will be cut on the same radius for convenient union therebetween. The necessary stitching between the various portions is illustrated clearly in Figure 4: and it will be seen that a seam other than a lap seam is employed to cause the bellows to normally fold in. When the crescent shaped sections are set in, the meeting edges of the portions will be stitched at the points illustrated at c and d, the meeting edges d preferably being in line with the main side seam a of the acket and the meeting edges being staggered with relation thereto. When inserted in the manner described it will be evident that two sections 0, d, may fold upon one another along their united edges when the arm is at the side in much the manner of a I hinge so that the outline of the seam under the arm pit is preserved in continuity with the seam above the arm pit. N0 puckering or bunchin is present and the shape and symmetry o the material and the entire garment is preserved. When the arm is raised, however, the sections 0, d, open up in somewhat the manner of a bellows to give free play and full extensibility and comfort;

While it is clear that somewhat the same bellows-like provision might be achieved by other means than those shown herein it has been found in practice that the illustrated em-,

.hodiment meets the requirements of manufacture, cost and use in an admirable way.

What I claim is:

- In a garment in combination with body and sleeve portions, a seam uniting said portions over the shoulder along a part of their meeting edges, and an extensible bellows-like in sert comprising two crescent shaped sections 7 one having its concave edge stitched to the convex edge of the other, the convex edge of Y said insert secured to one of said portions and the concave edge of said insert secured to the other portion whereby said bellows-like insert will normally fold inwardly, said insert constituting a continuation of said seam.

This specification signed this 2d day of February, A. D. 1926.

HENRY RIDGEWAY HART. 

